Wednesday 22 July 2015

New Look 6483... What a gem!

Ok so I planned none of this make, not a jot. The pattern was gifted by my lovely mother who had already traced it for herself (guess where I get the crafting bug!). At the time I thanked her, popped it in my pattern box, and thought nothing more of it. Then I was having a rifle through Fenwicks bargain bin (often a fine off cut is to be found here) and saw this really beautiful meter of God knows what!

Ok so I didn't take a photo of the pre-cut fabric, but you get the idea... And a preview

All I know about this stuff is its very soft, very loosely woven, and has a checked layer and a black layer woven together at the selvidge. I loved it and wanted it. Then I worried about what the hell I would make out of it and how those two loose layers would sew into a garment.
Cue a (much later) rifle through my pattern box and a eureka moment when I figured what I wanted! 


The pattern is a very basic boxy shaped blouse top, all versions have an open neck seam at the back for a button fasten. I liked the look of the sleeved version, but I thought it would be lovely to have the sleeves in a contrasting black.... Back to Fenwicks bargain bin. This time I found some form of stretch/suiting/wool/stuff which had a great weight to it which would give me the contrast I was after...


And I love it!!
It isn't without its issues. The weave fabric really doesn't suit this kind of top. I had some serious stay stitching to keep it in place... That's EVERY edge! But it went together well. Unfortunately at the stress point centre back (where my back rests against chairs and suchlike) the seams have started to pull the weave apart. I really should have stabilized with something and I'm kicking myself. I expect this piece of art to only have a limited shelf life before serious repairs are needed :(


The button fastening at the back is really simple, a loop of the stretch/suiting/stuff was used and it holds really well.

The other issue I had with the little dear was with fit. When I first made it and tried it on the shoulders were halfway down my arms... Ok I exaggerate, but they were waaaay to wide for my shoulders, so off came the sleeves (very carefully of course... The weave, my god the weave) and they were taken in to fit better. 

If you're wondering, yes they are both rabbit hutches, and no that's not my Buzz Lightyear

But they still pull tight over the chest... See stretch above the armpits. It's ok, I can live with this. But I'm sure as hell sorting it out for the next version!! Other than that (oh and the rather short hem... Which I was mortified about but now kinda like) I really like this shape! I really like the fabric and sleeves... And it takes a mere morning to put together (sleeve adjusting excluding).
Cue awkward yard shots of me showing it off....


Awkward bum shot


Trying to look pleased with my top shot


And my favourite... Moody teenager shot. Ha ha... Check out that pose!! And no you don't get to see the stupid face I was pulling.






Saturday 18 July 2015

Asters and fitting issues

There has been an awful lot of making stuff recently, but no talking about it. I've been a very busy bee after deciding that I wanted some new clothes for my mini holiday, because holidays are a great excuse for new stuff. So I have quite a bit of catching up to do

After last year when I visited London to do some fabric shopping I have been holding said fabrics for something special, especially my Liberty print! I may have mentioned the new Aster blouse from Collette patterns, and how excited I got when I saw it, well I had immediately decided that this blouse was what I had been saving my Liberty for... This time, with flutter sleeves!

(Looking up avoids the dreaded double chin don't you know)

I'm afraid I took these photos on a very bright day (not entirely unheard of in Newcastle), and my poor camera couldn't cope, so the print has all but vanished. This is an oh so soft Liberty cotton lawn which was bought in Misan Textiles in London with little blue flower buds on an off white background...


... Which are a bit more obvious here. I managed to find lovely little blue buttons to match the flowers, the top two show the colour as seen without shoddy photography. I wanted to try the flutter sleeves this time as I thought the lightweight fabric would show them off beautifully, and I must admit, I expected more flutter, but they are lovely... And summery... And quite flattering.
I had some interesting issues with this version. After the wearable muslin that I made in a size 10 came out very big, I decided to make this one in the smaller 8, and still it was too big. This confuses me as the last version was only a little too big Round the neckline, and this smaller size one was even bigger. Usually I just make up my shop bought dress size and hope for the best, but this difference really reminded me how hit and miss picking your right size really is.


This one is much snugger over the bust, and I can only put this down to the fabric I used, that #1 being a heavier cotton isn't very inclined to drape. But in #2 (the Libery one) I had a decidedly gapey neckline. I decided that this simply wouldn't do so I removed the sleeves, took in the side seams, and put the sleeves back with a higher shoulder. This seems to have done the trick. But it has left me very confused which size to cut next time (I obviously still need a long sleeved version).

(Neckline still a bit gapey even after adjusting)

I do still love this pattern, but after this experience (and another top which I will share soon) I have really thought about my shape, and what pattern adjustments I really should be making.